Leaving iPhone for Android: phone, passwords and codes

Do this: Don't cancel, delete or let the old account lapse yet. Plan to finish the move, and the checks in this plan, while you still have full access.

Why: Until you've checked the import, the old vault is the only complete copy of your passwords, notes and codes.

Check it worked: You can still open the old vault on at least one device until the cleanup steps.

Do this: Create the account with a strong, unique master password or passphrase you haven't used anywhere else. Save its recovery kit or recovery code offline, and turn on two-factor sign-in with a method that isn't stored inside the new vault.

Why: The new vault is about to hold every password you have, so its own sign-in and recovery need to be solid first.

Check it worked: Sign out, then sign back in on a second device using only your master password, your second factor and the recovery details you saved.

• Get to know your Emergency Kit

Do this: Note how many items you have of each type (logins, cards, notes, identities, passkeys), which vaults or folders are shared, and which items have attachments or two-factor codes. Record counts and names only; don't copy any secrets into the list.

Why: A vault holds more than logins. Passkeys, two-factor codes, attachments, cards, notes and shared items don't all move the same way.

Check it worked: You have a short note of item counts per type and per vault to compare against after the import.

Do this: Don't delete the app, reset the phone or trade it in until every account on your list works with the new app. Keep the old phone charged, and leave its date and time set automatically.

Why: Most accounts ask for a current code from the old app before they'll let you set up a new one.

Check it worked: The old app still opens and shows codes until the cleanup steps.

Do this: Open the old app and write down the name of every account in it. Record names only: never screenshot codes, QR codes or setup keys, and don't save them in notes or photos.

Why: Codes rarely move automatically, so a complete list is how you know when you're done.

Check it worked: Your list has the same number of entries as the old app.

Do this: Authy doesn't support exporting or importing tokens, and its desktop apps have been discontinued. Move each account by turning two-factor off and on again (or using the account's option to change authenticator) with a current Authy code, then scanning the new QR code in your new app. Keep Authy until every account is done.

Why: Some authenticator apps can move codes to a new phone or export them to another app. Others can't, and each account has to be set up again.

Check it worked: You know, for each account, whether it will transfer or needs re-enrolling.

• Export or import tokens in the Authy app not supported

Do this: Move your passwords to a password manager that works on Android, such as Google Password Manager or a cross-platform app. Use the export or transfer options Apple offers on your version of iOS or macOS, or your new password manager's import tool. Delete any exported file once the import is done, because it isn't encrypted.

Why: Apple Passwords (iCloud Keychain) is built for Apple devices. An Android phone can't use it to fill in your passwords.

Check it worked: The new password manager shows roughly the same number of logins, and it fills a password on the Android phone.

Do this: For each login with a saved verification code, sign in and use the account's security settings to move two-factor to an authenticator app that works on Android. Many sites let you add or replace an authenticator.

Why: Apple Passwords can store two-factor verification codes alongside a password. Those codes won't be available on an Android phone.

Check it worked: Each of those accounts accepts a code from the new authenticator.

Do this: Sign in to Google Authenticator with your Google Account so codes sync to Android, or use its transfer option to export a QR code and scan it on the new phone. Check every account appears before you erase the iPhone.

Why: Authenticator apps hold the two-factor codes for your most protected accounts. Unless they're synced or backed up, the codes exist only on the old phone.

Check it worked: Every account in the app shows on the new phone, and a code from the new phone works when you sign in to one of them.

• Get verification codes with Google Authenticator

Do this: Check that your Apple Account's trusted phone numbers include one you'll keep, and add a second (for example a partner's) if you can. Keep any Mac or iPad signed in so it stays a trusted device.

Why: Apple shows sign-in codes on your trusted Apple devices or sends them to a trusted phone number. Without an iPhone, a trusted number may be your only way to get them.

Check it worked: Sign in to your Apple Account in a browser and receive the code on your trusted number or another Apple device.

• Two-factor authentication for Apple Account

Do this: Run a fresh iCloud or computer backup and confirm it finished. It's your safety net if anything goes wrong, and lets you restore to an iPhone later if you change your mind.

Why: A fresh backup is your safety net if anything goes wrong mid-change.

Check it worked: Open the backup and spot-check a few recent photos and files.

Do this: Don't erase, reset or trade in the old phone until the verify steps in this plan are done. Keep it charged and on Wi-Fi.

Why: The iPhone is your fallback for iMessage, Apple sign-in codes, authenticator codes and anything that didn't copy across.

Check it worked: The old phone still turns on, unlocks and opens your authenticator app.

Do this: Before you start, sign in to your Apple Account or Google Account, your password manager and your main email from a web browser. Reset any password you're unsure of while the old phone still works.

Why: A new phone asks for your Apple Account or Google Account password, and often your password manager's main password, before it restores anything. Many people haven't typed these in years.

Check it worked: You've signed in to each one on the web in the last day.

Do this: Request a transfer to Google Photos from Apple's Data and Privacy page, or back up from the Google Photos app on the iPhone. Check your Google storage has room for the whole library first.

Why: iCloud Photos doesn't sync to Android. Apple offers a transfer that sends a copy of your library to Google Photos, and says most transfers take three to seven days.

Check it worked: Google Photos shows your library, and the photo count roughly matches iCloud.

• Transfer a copy of your iCloud Photos collection to another service

Do this: For important accounts that use a passkey from Apple Passwords, sign in on the Android phone and create a new passkey there, saved to Google Password Manager or a cross-platform password manager. Make sure each account also has another way in. If your iOS version can export passkeys to a cross-platform password manager, that's another option.

Why: Passkeys saved in Apple Passwords sync between Apple devices. An Android phone can't use them directly.

Check it worked: Sign in to one important account with a passkey from a second device.

• Passkeys

Do this: Don't delete your Apple Account. Keep its password and trusted phone number current, and sign in on the web when you need it.

Why: Your Apple Account holds your purchases, iCloud data, subscriptions and any Sign in with Apple logins. You don't need an iPhone to keep it.

Check it worked: You can sign in to your Apple Account in a web browser.

• Manage your Apple Account

Do this: Review the apps using Sign in with Apple in your Apple Account settings. For the important ones, check the app offers Sign in with Apple on Android or the web, or add a password or another sign-in method while you still have the iPhone.

Why: Apps you joined with Sign in with Apple are tied to your Apple Account, and Hide My Email addresses forward to the email address on that account.

Check it worked: You've signed in to each important app on the new phone.

Do this: Choose where notes and reminders will live on Android, such as Google Keep or a cross-platform notes app, and copy across the ones you need. Locked notes may need unlocking on an Apple device first.

Why: Apple Notes and Reminders don't have Android apps. You can still open them on iCloud's website, but they won't sync to the phone.

Check it worked: Your important notes and upcoming reminders are in the new app.

Do this: List the paid apps and in-app purchases you use. Check whether each has a version on the other platform and whether signing in to the app's own account brings your purchase with you.

Why: Apps bought from the App Store or Google Play belong to that store. On the other platform you buy them again, or use a subscription that works on both.

Check it worked: You know which apps you'll need to buy again or sign in to.

Do this: Check whether your export includes the one-time-password secrets and whether the new manager imports them. If not, re-enrol two-factor on each affected account from the new manager or an authenticator app, using a current code from the old manager.

Why: If your password manager generates sign-in codes, the secrets behind them have to move too, and some export formats skip them.

Check it worked: For each affected account, the code in the new manager matches the old one, and you've signed in with it.

Do this: If the new manager has a direct LastPass importer, use it. Otherwise export a CSV from the LastPass browser extension. LastPass says the CSV doesn't include attachments, two-factor codes saved with passwords, or custom fields, so plan to move those separately. A business admin policy can block exports.

Why: An export file or a direct app-to-app transfer is how your items get into the new manager.

Check it worked: The export or transfer summary shows roughly the same item counts as your inventory.

• Export vault data from LastPass as a generic CSV file

Do this: Follow 1Password's import guide for your old manager; it has dedicated guides for browsers and several password managers, and CSV import for others. A CSV import brings across logins, credit cards and secure notes only. Import once to avoid duplicates.

Why: The import decides what lands where: folders, tags, vaults and field types can all be mapped differently.

Check it worked: Compare item counts per type with your inventory, then open a sample of logins, cards and notes to check usernames, website addresses and notes came across.

• Move your data from other applications to 1Password

Do this: Keep the file on the computer you're using (not in a cloud-synced folder), never email or message it, and delete it as soon as the import is checked. Empty the trash or recycle bin, and check that a sync or backup tool didn't copy it.

Why: Plain CSV and unencrypted exports contain every password in readable text.

Check it worked: Search your computer and cloud storage for the file name and confirm no copies remain.

Do this: Download each attachment from the old vault and add it to the matching item in the new one. Delete the downloaded copies from your computer afterwards.

Why: Many export formats leave out attached files, such as scanned IDs, recovery documents and licence files.

Check it worked: Open a few items in the new vault and confirm their attachments open.

Do this: Check whether both managers support passkey transfer on your devices. If they don't, list the accounts that use passkeys, make sure each still has another way in, then create a new passkey on each site from the new manager and remove the old one.

Why: Moving passkeys between managers is still new. Some apps can now transfer them directly using the FIDO Credential Exchange standard on recent iPhone and Android versions, but many export files leave passkeys out.

Check it worked: Sign in to each passkey account using a passkey from the new manager.

• FIDO Credential Exchange Specifications
• Passkeys

Do this: Install the new manager's extension and sign in. Remove or turn off the old extension, and turn off the browser's own offer to save passwords and passkeys.

Why: Two password tools offering to save and fill at the same time leads to conflicting prompts, and new passwords end up in the wrong place.

Check it worked: Create or update a login on a harmless site and confirm only the new manager offers to save it.

Do this: Install the new manager's extension and sign in. Remove or turn off the old extension, and turn off the browser's own offer to save passwords and passkeys.

Why: Two password tools offering to save and fill at the same time leads to conflicting prompts, and new passwords end up in the wrong place.

Check it worked: Create or update a login on a harmless site and confirm only the new manager offers to save it.

Do this: Install the new manager's app and sign in. In the Settings app, open the AutoFill and passwords options, turn on the new manager and turn off the old one. Leave Apple Passwords on only if you still want it as a source.

Why: iPhone and Android each have a system setting that decides which apps fill passwords and passkeys.

Check it worked: Open a sign-in screen in an app and confirm the new manager offers to fill it.

Do this: After importing, open each item type you use and compare a few with the old vault. Re-create anything missing and check custom fields landed in the right place.

Why: Each manager stores these item types differently, and some export formats (especially CSV) carry only logins.

Check it worked: A sample of each item type matches the old vault field for field.

Do this: After importing, open each item type you use and compare a few with the old vault. Re-create anything missing and check custom fields landed in the right place.

Why: Each manager stores these item types differently, and some export formats (especially CSV) carry only logins.

Check it worked: A sample of each item type matches the old vault field for field.

Do this: Install the new manager on each device you use and sign in. Remove the old app from each device once the new one fills passwords there.

Why: Each computer, phone and tablet needs the new app or extension, and the old one removed.

Check it worked: Every device opens the new vault and fills a login.

Do this: For each account on your list: sign in, open its two-factor or security settings, choose to change or add an authenticator app, confirm with a current code from the old app if asked, scan the new QR code with the new app, and confirm with a code from the new app. Some services replace the old authenticator as soon as you confirm the new one; others keep both until you remove one.

Why: Setting the new app up in each account's security settings gives it its own secret, so nothing depends on the old app.

Check it worked: Tick an account off your list only after signing in with a code from the new app.

Do this: Re-enrol your main email account and any Google or Microsoft account first, test them, and save fresh backup codes before moving on.

Why: Email is how you recover almost every other account, so it should be the first thing that works with the new app.

Check it worked: You've signed in to each with a code from the new app and saved new backup codes.

Do this: Move the password manager's two-factor early, while you're signed in on a trusted device. Keep its recovery kit offline, and make sure the new app's backup password isn't stored only inside the vault.

Why: If the password manager's sign-in needs a code from the old app, moving it carelessly can lock you out of both at once.

Check it worked: Sign in to the password manager on a second device with a code from the new app.

• Get to know your Emergency Kit

Do this: Use your organization's security info or self-service page, or ask IT, to register the new app before you remove the old one. Personal backups and exports usually don't move work accounts.

Why: Work accounts often require multi-factor sign-in tied to your phone or contact details.

Check it worked: Sign in to work systems once with the new method.

Do this: Turn on sync and confirm it works. Give the account it syncs to a strong password, a second factor that isn't stored only in this same app, and current recovery details. Check how the provider says the synced codes are encrypted.

Why: If codes sync to your Google, Apple or Microsoft account, that account's sign-in now protects every code.

Check it worked: Codes appear when you sign in to the app on a second device, and the account's security settings show no warnings.

Do this: Register the new phone or app as an approval method for each account (for work accounts, through your organization's security info page or IT), approve a test sign-in, then remove the old registration.

Why: Push approvals are tied to an app registered on a specific phone. They don't move with an export, and backups may restore them only partly.

Check it worked: A fresh sign-in sends the approval request to the new phone.

Do this: Start these early. Use each provider's own process for changing your authenticator, and keep the old app until each one is confirmed.

Why: Some financial services ask you to call, verify your identity or wait before changing two-factor settings.

Check it worked: Each financial account signs in with a code from the new app.

Do this: Where an account allows more than one authenticator or MFA device, add the new one, test it, then remove the old one. Ask other admins on shared accounts to check their own sign-in still works.

Why: These accounts control websites, email and billing, and their admin sign-ins are often protected by an authenticator.

Check it worked: You've signed in to each console with the new app, including root or owner accounts.

Do this: Scan each QR code straight into the new app. If you've saved screenshots or setup keys in the past, delete them, or keep them only as securely as your backup codes.

Why: A QR code or setup key is the secret itself. Anyone with a copy can generate your codes.

Check it worked: Your photos, notes and downloads contain no QR codes or setup keys.

Do this: Re-enrol each one in the new app and save its backup codes.

Why: Social and gaming accounts can be slow to recover if you lose two-factor.

Check it worked: Each account signs in with a code from the new app.

Do this: Use a phone passcode and, if the new app offers it, turn on its app lock or biometric unlock.

Why: Anyone who can unlock your phone can read the codes in an authenticator.

Check it worked: The new app asks for your passcode or biometrics when it opens.

Do this: Leave date and time set automatically on the new phone. If codes are rejected, check the clock before anything else.

Why: Authenticator codes are based on the current time, so a phone clock that's off can produce codes that are rejected.

Check it worked: The new app shows the same code as the old app at the same moment.

Do this: On the iPhone, while your SIM is still in it, turn off iMessage in the Messages settings and FaceTime in the FaceTime settings. Then move the SIM or eSIM.

Why: Your number stays registered with iMessage until you turn it off, so iPhone users' messages can keep trying to go through iMessage instead of reaching your new phone.

Check it worked: After the switch, ask an iPhone user to text you. It should arrive on the new phone as a normal text or RCS message.

• Deregister and turn off iMessage

Do this: Use your existing Google Account, or create one, during setup. It holds your contacts, Play Store purchases, backups and saved passwords on Android. Make sure 2-Step Verification has more than one method.

Why: On Android, your Google Account does the job your Apple Account did on the iPhone.

Check it worked: Run Security Checkup and confirm it shows the new details with no warnings.

• Turn on 2-Step Verification
• Set a recovery phone number or email address
• Google Security Checkup

Do this: When the Android phone offers to copy data from an iPhone, follow it, by cable or with Google's Switch to Android app on the iPhone. Samsung phones may offer Smart Switch instead. Keep both phones charged and close together.

Why: Built-in transfer tools copy apps, settings, photos, messages and accounts in one go, which is far more complete than setting up from scratch.

Check it worked: Spot-check photos, messages, contacts and your home screen on the new phone.

• Switch to Android

Do this: Let Android's iPhone transfer copy them, or export contacts from iCloud on the web as a vCard file and import them into Google Contacts. Shared iCloud calendars need to be shared again or followed by link.

Why: Contacts and calendars kept in iCloud don't sync to Android. They need to end up in your Google Account to stay in sync.

Check it worked: Your contacts appear in Google Contacts on the web, and upcoming events show in Google Calendar.

Do this: Move the physical SIM, or set up your eSIM on the Android phone. Depending on your carrier and phone, an eSIM may transfer during setup or need reissuing through the carrier's app, website or store. Do this after iMessage is off.

Why: Your phone number lives on the SIM or eSIM. Until it's active on the new phone, calls, texts and sign-in codes keep going to the old one.

Check it worked: The new phone shows your carrier with signal and can make a call.

Do this: Set up the family plan in the new manager, invite each person, recreate the shared vaults, then move shared items into them. Agree a date when everyone stops using the old manager.

Why: Shared items belong to a family or team structure that a personal export doesn't recreate.

Check it worked: Each person can open a shared item from the new manager.

Do this: Set up the new manager's equivalent, such as emergency access, a recovery contact, or a printed emergency kit kept with your important papers, and tell that person what changed.

Why: Emergency access, recovery contacts and family recovery set up in the old manager don't transfer.

Check it worked: The new manager shows the arrangement as active, or the person confirms they know where the kit is.

Do this: Use WhatsApp's iPhone-to-Android transfer, which runs during the Android phone's setup or through WhatsApp's own transfer option depending on your phones. Don't rely on the iCloud backup; it can't be restored on Android.

Why: WhatsApp backs up to iCloud on iPhone and to Google on Android, and the two backups aren't interchangeable.

Check it worked: Your chats, groups and media appear in WhatsApp on Android.

• WhatsApp Help Center

Do this: Open each banking app on the new phone and complete its verification while the old phone still works. If an app asks you to call or visit, do that before wiping the old phone.

Why: Many banking apps register one specific phone, so a transferred app may ask you to verify again, sometimes by text, by call or by approving from the old device.

Check it worked: Each banking app signs in on the new phone and can approve a low-risk action.

Do this: Ask someone in each group to start a new group that includes your number. If everyone's phone and carrier support RCS, the new group can use it; otherwise it uses MMS.

Why: iMessage group chats only include Apple devices. Once you leave iMessage, those groups carry on without you.

Check it worked: You receive a message in each new group.

Do this: Add each card to Google Wallet (or Samsung Wallet) and complete the card issuer's verification. Erasing the iPhone later removes its Apple Pay cards.

Why: Cards in Apple Pay, Google Wallet or Samsung Wallet are set up for each device, so they don't arrive on a new phone ready to use.

Check it worked: Make a small tap-to-pay purchase with the new phone.

Do this: Re-download upcoming tickets and boarding passes from the airline or ticket seller's app. For transit cards with a balance, follow the transit operator's instructions before erasing the old phone.

Why: Passes, event tickets and transit cards stored in a phone wallet don't always move to a new wallet app, and transit cards can hold a balance.

Check it worked: Upcoming tickets and passes appear in the new phone's wallet or in the issuer's app.

Do this: Install your apps from Google Play and sign in. Open the ones you care about and check their data is there. For any that kept data only on the iPhone, use the app's export or account sign-in on the iPhone first.

Why: Some apps don't back up to the cloud. Games, notes and voice recorder apps, offline maps and some health apps can keep data only on the device.

Check it worked: Your most-used apps show their data on the new phone.

Do this: Open Google Messages and check that RCS chats are turned on and show as connected.

Why: RCS chats add typing indicators, better photos and more reliable group chats, including with iPhone users where their software and carrier support it.

Check it worked: Google Messages shows RCS chats as connected.

• Turn on RCS chats in Google Messages

Do this: Pair the AirPods with the Android phone through Bluetooth settings. They'll play audio, but features like automatic device switching need an Apple device.

Why: Watches, earbuds, cars and fitness trackers pair with one phone at a time, and some need resetting before they'll pair with a new one.

Check it worked: Each device shows as connected on the new phone, and its app shows recent data.

Do this: In a private browser window, sign in to your email, bank, Apple, Google or Microsoft account and work tools using only the new manager. Fix any item that doesn't fill or doesn't work.

Why: An import can look complete and still have wrong usernames, website addresses or missing codes.

Check it worked: Your 10 to 15 most important accounts sign in using the new manager alone.

Do this: On a device that isn't signed in, sign in with your master password and second factor. Confirm you know exactly where the recovery kit or code is kept.

Why: You want to know recovery works before you depend on it.

Check it worked: You signed in on a fresh device and can put your hand on the recovery details.

Do this: For each account, sign out (or use a private browser window) and sign in using only the new app.

Why: Seeing an account in the new app isn't the same as the account accepting its codes.

Check it worked: Every account on your list is ticked off after a successful sign-in.

Do this: Confirm where your backup codes are, that they're the latest set, and that you know the password for the new app's backup, if it has one.

Why: Backup codes and the new app's backup only help if you can get to them when the phone is gone.

Check it worked: You can find each important account's backup codes without the phone.

Do this: Ask a friend with an iPhone to text you and check it arrives in Google Messages. Call the new phone, then trigger a verification code from your bank or email and confirm it arrives.

Why: Your number is how many services prove it's you. A new SIM or eSIM can take a little while to activate fully, and texts from banks' short codes are the last thing people check.

Check it worked: A call, a normal text and at least one automated code have all arrived on the new phone.

Do this: Sign out and back in to your email, banking app and password manager on the new phone, completing two-factor each time.

Why: Apps can look signed in after a transfer while their two-factor or recovery settings still depend on the old phone.

Check it worked: Each sign-in completed using only the new phone.

Do this: Use Apple's Deregister iMessage page and confirm with the code it texts to your new phone.

Why: If you've already moved the SIM or no longer have the iPhone, Apple has an online form that removes your number from iMessage after confirming a code sent to it.

Check it worked: An iPhone user can text you and it arrives.

• Deregister and turn off iMessage

Do this: When nothing has been missing for a few weeks, cancel the subscription (through the app store if you bought it there), delete the old vault and account, and remove its apps and extensions. For a built-in manager such as Apple Passwords or Google Password Manager, delete the saved passwords and passkeys instead; the Apple or Google account itself stays. Verify the provider's current retention/cancellation policy.

Why: Deleting the old vault is the one step you can't undo, and a subscription keeps renewing until you cancel it.

Check it worked: You have a cancellation or deletion confirmation, and the next renewal date passes with no charge.

Do this: Keep the old account available for a few weeks but stop saving to it. Don't keep a plain CSV export as your backup.

Why: Missing items often surface weeks later, when you sign in to something you rarely use.

Check it worked: A few weeks pass without finding anything missing from the new vault.

Do this: In each account's security settings, remove the old authenticator or device where it's still listed, keeping the new app and your backup codes.

Why: Accounts that list both authenticators still accept codes from the old app.

Check it worked: Each account's security page lists only the new app, plus any security keys or backup methods you chose.

Do this: Only after every account has been tested with the new app, delete the entries from the old app, then the app itself.

Why: Deleting codes is the one step you can't undo.

Check it worked: Your list shows every account moved and tested before the old app is deleted.

Do this: Once every account works with the new app and the old authenticator has been removed from each one, remove old devices from Authy and consider deleting your Authy account so its backups no longer exist.

Why: Cloud backups and synced copies of the old app still hold your secrets.

Check it worked: The old app's settings show no active backup, and no backups remain in its cloud account.

Do this: Once nothing depends on it, sign out of your accounts, remove it from your Apple or Google account's device list, then erase it completely.

Why: The old phone can still hold codes, backups and signed-in accounts.

Check it worked: The phone starts at its setup screen and no longer appears in your account's device list.

Do this: Unpair any Apple Watch first. Then sign out of your Apple Account in the iPhone's settings, which turns off Find My and Activation Lock. Have your Apple Account password ready.

Why: An iPhone stays locked to your Apple Account through Find My, and an Android phone is protected by the Google account on it. The lock can survive a reset.

Check it worked: After erasing, the phone starts at the welcome screen without asking for your account.

• What to do before you sell, give away, or trade in your iPhone or iPad
• Reset your Android device to factory settings

Do this: Use the phone's own erase or factory reset option once everything has moved and Activation Lock or Factory Reset Protection is off. Erase the eSIM when asked, and take out any physical SIM or memory card.

Why: Phones hold messages, photos, saved passwords and signed-in sessions. A full erase is the only reliable way to remove them.

Check it worked: The phone restarts to the welcome screen, with no SIM card inside.

Do this: Run the new manager's password health or breach check. Change reused, weak or exposed passwords, starting with email, money and work accounts.

Why: A switch is a good time to use the new manager's password health or breach report.

Check it worked: The report shows fewer reused and weak passwords, and none on your most important accounts.

Do this: For a few weeks, notice any prompt from the old manager or a browser to save a password, and fix that device's setup.

Why: A browser or device you rarely use may still have the old extension or autofill set up.

Check it worked: Nothing but the new manager has offered to save a password for two weeks.

Do this: Check your list again in a few months. If an account asks for a code from the old app, use its backup codes and re-enrol it.

Why: Tax, domain, insurance and old shopping accounts tend to surface months later.

Check it worked: Nothing has asked for an old-app code in the months since.

Do this: Check the program's requirements, remove the case and SIM, and keep the confirmation until the credit or payment arrives.

Why: Trade-in values usually depend on the phone's condition, and most programs require it to be erased and removed from your account first.

Check it worked: The trade-in credit or sale payment has arrived.

Do this: For the next few weeks, note any message that seems to be missing, any app that asks you to verify again and any subscription still charging the old store. Fix each one as it appears.

Why: Missing messages, failed codes and apps asking you to sign in again usually show up in the first few weeks.

Check it worked: Nothing new has turned up for two weeks.