New phone and new carrier at the same time
Switch carriers and phones together without losing your number, your codes or your messages.
Saves the combined checklist in this browser with typical answers. You can refine each change afterwards.
Getting a new phone and switching carriers at the same time is common, and it's when people get locked out of accounts. Your number, your authenticator app and your messages all move at once.
This plan puts both changes in one order: the steps that protect your codes come first.
Doing these together: read this first
Move your authenticator codes before you reset the old phone
Set up the authenticator on the new phone and test a code for each account while the old phone still works. Only then erase or trade in the old phone.
Change one way of signing in at a time
More than one of these changes affects how you sign in or recover accounts. On each account, update one sign-in or recovery method, check you can still sign in and receive codes, then update the next. Never remove an old method before the new one works.
The combined checklist
54 tasks from typical answers, with 6 shared tasks merged. Yours will match your answers.
Before the change16
Don't cancel your current service yourselfMobile carriercritical
Do this: Leave the current service active until the new carrier confirms the number has moved. Cancel anything else on the old account, like other lines or home internet, separately and afterwards.
Why: Transferring your number normally closes that line with the old carrier for you. Cancelling first can release the number before the transfer happens.
Check it worked: The new carrier confirms the transfer is complete before you contact the old one.
Phone payments and contract termsMobile carrierhigh
Do this: Check your agreement, or ask the carrier what you'd owe if the line transferred today: any remaining phone balance, cancellation fee, and bill credits that would stop. Compare that with the new carrier's offer.
Why: If you're paying off a phone or on a fixed-term plan, leaving the carrier can make a remaining balance or a cancellation fee due.
Check it worked: You know the amount due and when it will be billed.
Check your phone is unlockedMobile carrierhigh
Do this: Ask your current carrier whether the phone is locked and request an unlock before you switch. When carriers must unlock phones, and whether they can charge for it, depends on where you live.
Why: Phones sold by carriers are sometimes locked to that carrier's network and won't work with another carrier's SIM until they're unlocked.
Check it worked: The carrier confirms the unlock, or another carrier's SIM works in the phone.
Get your number transfer PIN and account detailsMobile carrierhigh
Do this: Ask your current carrier (in its app, online account or by phone) for whatever the new carrier needs to transfer your number. Check the account holder's name and address match what you give the new carrier.
Why: The new carrier needs details from your current account to request the transfer, often an account number and a transfer PIN or code that only the current carrier can give you.
Check it worked: You have the details the new carrier asked for, written down somewhere other than the phone.
Know your rights when switching (CRTC Wireless Code)Mobile carrierlow
Do this: Read your telecom regulator's guidance on switching providers and keeping your number before you commit.
Why: Rules on unlocking phones, cancellation fees and number transfers are set by each country's regulator, and they change.
Check it worked: You know what your current carrier can and can't charge or require when you leave.
Save voicemails you want to keepMobile carrierlow
Do this: Save or share the voicemails you want to keep from your phone's voicemail app, and note your greeting so you can record it again.
Why: Voicemails are usually stored by the carrier rather than on the phone, and may not move with your number.
Check it worked: The voicemails you care about are saved outside the voicemail box.
Keep the old app and phone working until every account has movedAuthenticator appcritical
Do this: Don't delete the app, reset the phone or trade it in until every account on your list works with the new app. Keep the old phone charged, and leave its date and time set automatically.
Why: Most accounts ask for a current code from the old app before they'll let you set up a new one.
Check it worked: The old app still opens and shows codes until the cleanup steps.
Save backup codes for your important accounts before you start Do once for 2 changesAuthenticator appNew phonecritical
Do this: For each important account, find or generate backup codes in its security settings and store them offline or in your password manager, not in the authenticator. Some services issue a new set when you change two-factor settings, so save the latest set after re-enrolling.
For the other change: Generate or locate backup codes for your email, Apple/Google/Microsoft and password manager accounts. Store them somewhere safe and offline.
Why: Backup codes let you sign in when your phone, number or authenticator isn't available.
Check it worked: Confirm you can find each set of codes without needing the device or number you're changing.
List every account that uses the old appAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Open the old app and write down the name of every account in it. Record names only: never screenshot codes, QR codes or setup keys, and don't save them in notes or photos.
Why: Codes rarely move automatically, so a complete list is how you know when you're done.
Check it worked: Your list has the same number of entries as the old app.
Authy: no export, so each account needs re-enrollingAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Authy doesn't support exporting or importing tokens, and its desktop apps have been discontinued. Move each account by turning two-factor off and on again (or using the account's option to change authenticator) with a current Authy code, then scanning the new QR code in your new app. Keep Authy until every account is done.
Why: Some authenticator apps can move codes to a new phone or export them to another app. Others can't, and each account has to be set up again.
Check it worked: You know, for each account, whether it will transfer or needs re-enrolling.
Google Authenticator: sync or transfer your codesNew phonecritical
Do this: Either sign in to Google Authenticator with your Google Account so codes sync to the new phone, or use its transfer option to export the codes as a QR code and scan it on the new phone. Check every account appears before touching the old phone.
Why: Authenticator apps hold the two-factor codes for your most protected accounts. Unless they're synced or backed up, the codes exist only on the old phone.
Check it worked: Every account in the app shows on the new phone, and a code from the new phone works when you sign in to one of them.
Back up the old phone and confirm it finishedNew phonehigh
Do this: Run a fresh backup to iCloud, your Google Account or a computer, and confirm it completed. Even with a direct phone-to-phone transfer, it's your safety net if the transfer fails.
Why: A fresh backup is your safety net if anything goes wrong mid-change.
Check it worked: Open the backup and spot-check a few recent photos and files.
Make sure you know your main account passwordsNew phonehigh
Do this: Before you start, sign in to your Apple Account or Google Account, your password manager and your main email from a web browser. Reset any password you're unsure of while the old phone still works.
Why: A new phone asks for your Apple Account or Google Account password, and often your password manager's main password, before it restores anything. Many people haven't typed these in years.
Check it worked: You've signed in to each one on the web in the last day.
Keep the old phone working until the new one is readyNew phonehigh
Do this: Don't erase, reset or trade in the old phone until the verify steps in this plan are done. Keep it charged and on Wi-Fi.
Why: The old phone is your fallback. It still holds authenticator codes, signed-in apps and chat history that may not have copied across.
Check it worked: The old phone still turns on, unlocks and opens your authenticator app.
Check your passkeys will come with youNew phonemoderate
Do this: Passkeys saved to iCloud Keychain, Google Password Manager or a password manager follow your account to the new phone. Check your important accounts also have another way in, in case a passkey was saved only on the old phone.
Why: Passkeys are stored in a password manager or platform account (Apple, Google, Microsoft) and synced through it.
Check it worked: Sign in to one important account with a passkey from a second device.
Update both phones' software firstNew phonelow
Do this: Install any pending system update on the old phone, and let the new phone update during setup if it offers to. Update your authenticator and messaging apps too.
Why: Transfer tools work best when both phones run current software, and some transfer options only appear in recent versions.
Check it worked: Both phones report that their software is up to date.
During the change16
Activate the new eSIM Do once for 2 changesMobile carrierNew phonehigh
Do this: Follow the new carrier's instructions to add the eSIM, usually by scanning a QR code or through its app. Keep the old eSIM on the phone until the new carrier confirms the transfer.
For the other change: Choose to transfer your eSIM when the new phone offers it during setup. If it isn't offered, use your carrier's app or website, or visit a store. Don't delete the eSIM from the old phone until the new one works.
Why: Your phone number lives on the SIM or eSIM. Until it's active on the new phone, calls, texts and sign-in codes keep going to the old one.
Check it worked: The new phone shows your carrier with signal and can make a call.
Confirm the number has movedMobile carrierhigh
Do this: Wait for the new carrier to confirm the transfer, restart the phone and check it shows the new carrier. If it's taking longer than you were told, contact the new carrier.
Why: Transfers can take anywhere from minutes to longer. Until one completes, calls and texts may arrive on either carrier.
Check it worked: Calls and texts to your number arrive through the new carrier, and the old carrier's service has stopped.
Re-enrol each account in the new appAuthenticator appcritical
Do this: For each account on your list: sign in, open its two-factor or security settings, choose to change or add an authenticator app, confirm with a current code from the old app if asked, scan the new QR code with the new app, and confirm with a code from the new app. Some services replace the old authenticator as soon as you confirm the new one; others keep both until you remove one.
Why: Setting the new app up in each account's security settings gives it its own secret, so nothing depends on the old app.
Check it worked: Tick an account off your list only after signing in with a code from the new app.
Move your email, Google and Microsoft accounts firstAuthenticator appcritical
Do this: Re-enrol your main email account and any Google or Microsoft account first, test them, and save fresh backup codes before moving on.
Why: Email is how you recover almost every other account, so it should be the first thing that works with the new app.
Check it worked: You've signed in to each with a code from the new app and saved new backup codes.
Your password manager's own two-factorAuthenticator appcritical
Do this: Move the password manager's two-factor early, while you're signed in on a trusted device. Keep its recovery kit offline, and make sure the new app's backup password isn't stored only inside the vault.
Why: If the password manager's sign-in needs a code from the old app, moving it carelessly can lock you out of both at once.
Check it worked: Sign in to the password manager on a second device with a code from the new app.
Work or school accounts: re-register through your organizationAuthenticator appcritical
Do this: Use your organization's security info or self-service page, or ask IT, to register the new app before you remove the old one. Personal backups and exports usually don't move work accounts.
Why: Work accounts often require multi-factor sign-in tied to your phone or contact details.
Check it worked: Sign in to work systems once with the new method.
Synced backup: protect the account it syncs toAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Turn on sync and confirm it works. Give the account it syncs to a strong password, a second factor that isn't stored only in this same app, and current recovery details. Check how the provider says the synced codes are encrypted.
Why: If codes sync to your Google, Apple or Microsoft account, that account's sign-in now protects every code.
Check it worked: Codes appear when you sign in to the app on a second device, and the account's security settings show no warnings.
Sign-ins you approve with a tapAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Register the new phone or app as an approval method for each account (for work accounts, through your organization's security info page or IT), approve a test sign-in, then remove the old registration.
Why: Push approvals are tied to an app registered on a specific phone. They don't move with an export, and backups may restore them only partly.
Check it worked: A fresh sign-in sends the approval request to the new phone.
Banking, investing and crypto accountsAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Start these early. Use each provider's own process for changing your authenticator, and keep the old app until each one is confirmed.
Why: Some financial services ask you to call, verify your identity or wait before changing two-factor settings.
Check it worked: Each financial account signs in with a code from the new app.
Cloud, hosting and domain registrar accountsAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Where an account allows more than one authenticator or MFA device, add the new one, test it, then remove the old one. Ask other admins on shared accounts to check their own sign-in still works.
Why: These accounts control websites, email and billing, and their admin sign-ins are often protected by an authenticator.
Check it worked: You've signed in to each console with the new app, including root or owner accounts.
Don't keep copies of QR codes or setup keysAuthenticator appmoderate
Do this: Scan each QR code straight into the new app. If you've saved screenshots or setup keys in the past, delete them, or keep them only as securely as your backup codes.
Why: A QR code or setup key is the secret itself. Anyone with a copy can generate your codes.
Check it worked: Your photos, notes and downloads contain no QR codes or setup keys.
Social media and gaming accountsAuthenticator appmoderate
Do this: Re-enrol each one in the new app and save its backup codes.
Why: Social and gaming accounts can be slow to recover if you lose two-factor.
Check it worked: Each account signs in with a code from the new app.
Lock the phone and the new appAuthenticator applow
Do this: Use a phone passcode and, if the new app offers it, turn on its app lock or biometric unlock.
Why: Anyone who can unlock your phone can read the codes in an authenticator.
Check it worked: The new app asks for your passcode or biometrics when it opens.
Keep the phone's date and time automaticAuthenticator applow
Do this: Leave date and time set automatically on the new phone. If codes are rejected, check the clock before anything else.
Why: Authenticator codes are based on the current time, so a phone clock that's off can produce codes that are rejected.
Check it worked: The new app shows the same code as the old app at the same moment.
Use Quick Start to transfer from your old iPhoneNew phonehigh
Do this: Turn on the new iPhone next to the old one and follow Quick Start. Keep both phones close, charged and on Wi-Fi until the transfer finishes.
Why: Built-in transfer tools copy apps, settings, photos, messages and accounts in one go, which is far more complete than setting up from scratch.
Check it worked: Spot-check photos, messages, contacts and your home screen on the new phone.
WhatsApp: bring your chats acrossNew phonehigh
Do this: Back up your chats in WhatsApp's settings first. Then use WhatsApp's transfer option, or restore from the backup when you verify your number on the new phone.
Why: WhatsApp runs on one phone per number, and chat history only comes with you through a backup or transfer.
Check it worked: Your recent chats and groups appear on the new phone.
Immediately after7
Set an account PIN and number-transfer protection on the new accountMobile carrierhigh
Do this: Set an account PIN or passcode and turn on port-out or number-transfer protection if your carrier offers it.
Why: Your carrier account controls your number. Attackers who take it over can redirect your texts.
Check it worked: Ask the carrier to confirm the PIN and protection are on.
Voicemail and Wi-Fi calling on the new carrierMobile carrierlow
Do this: Set up voicemail and record your greeting. Turn on Wi-Fi calling if you use it, and add your emergency address if the carrier asks.
Why: Voicemail, Wi-Fi calling and the emergency address used with it are set up separately with each carrier.
Check it worked: Leave yourself a voicemail, and make a call over Wi-Fi where mobile signal is weak.
iPhone: check iMessage and FaceTime are using your number Do once for 2 changesMobile carrierNew phonelow
Do this: In the Messages and FaceTime settings, check your phone number is selected. If it isn't, turn iMessage and FaceTime off and on again; activation can take a little while after a carrier change.
For the other change: On the new iPhone, check iMessage and FaceTime are on and that your phone number and email are selected for sending and receiving. Activation can take a little while after the SIM moves.
Why: iMessage and FaceTime register your phone number and email addresses as ways to reach you.
Check it worked: Ask someone to send you an iMessage and confirm it arrives on all your devices.
Banking apps tied to a single deviceNew phonehigh
Do this: Open each banking app on the new phone and complete its verification while the old phone still works. If an app asks you to call or visit, do that before wiping the old phone.
Why: Many banking apps register one specific phone, so a transferred app may ask you to verify again, sometimes by text, by call or by approving from the old device.
Check it worked: Each banking app signs in on the new phone and can approve a low-risk action.
Add your cards to the new phone's walletNew phonemoderate
Do this: Add each card again in the new phone's wallet app and complete the card issuer's verification. Remove the cards from the old phone once the new ones work.
Why: Cards in Apple Pay, Google Wallet or Samsung Wallet are set up for each device, so they don't arrive on a new phone ready to use.
Check it worked: Make a small tap-to-pay purchase with the new phone.
Apps that keep data only on the phoneNew phonemoderate
Do this: Open the apps you care about on the new phone and check their data is there. For any that are empty, use the app's export or account sign-in option on the old phone first.
Why: Some apps don't back up to the cloud. Games, notes and voice recorder apps, offline maps and some health apps can keep data only on the device.
Check it worked: Your most-used apps show their data on the new phone.
Move your watch, earbuds and other paired devicesNew phonemoderate
Do this: Follow each device's own process to move it to the new phone. Sync or back up a watch before unpairing it, then re-pair your car and earbuds once the new phone is set up.
Why: Watches, earbuds, cars and fitness trackers pair with one phone at a time, and some need resetting before they'll pair with a new one.
Check it worked: Each device shows as connected on the new phone, and its app shows recent data.
Verify4
Test calls, texts and verification codes on the new phone Do once for 2 changesMobile carrierNew phonecritical
Do this: Call and text the new phone from someone else's phone, then trigger a verification code from a service you use and confirm it arrives.
For the other change: Call and text your number from someone else's phone, and check calls, texts and voicemail work on the new carrier.
Why: Your number is how many services prove it's you. A new SIM or eSIM can take a little while to activate fully, and texts from banks' short codes are the last thing people check.
Check it worked: A call, a normal text and at least one automated code have all arrived on the new phone.
Trigger a sign-in code from your bank and email Do once for 2 changesMobile carrierNew phonecritical
Do this: Sign in to your bank and your email from a fresh session and confirm the text codes arrive. Short-code texts from banks are sometimes the last thing to work on a new carrier.
For the other change: Sign out and back in to your email, banking app and password manager on the new phone, completing two-factor each time.
Why: Apps can look signed in after a transfer while their two-factor or recovery settings still depend on the old phone.
Check it worked: Each sign-in completed using only the new phone.
Sign in with a code from the new appAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: For each account, sign out (or use a private browser window) and sign in using only the new app.
Why: Seeing an account in the new app isn't the same as the account accepting its codes.
Check it worked: Every account on your list is ticked off after a successful sign-in.
Check you can reach your fallbacks without the phoneAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: Confirm where your backup codes are, that they're the latest set, and that you know the password for the new app's backup, if it has one.
Why: Backup codes and the new app's backup only help if you can get to them when the phone is gone.
Check it worked: You can find each important account's backup codes without the phone.
Clean up8
Make sure nothing is left on the old accountMobile carriermoderate
Do this: Once the transfer is complete, check the old account for anything still active, such as other lines, device protection or home internet, and cancel what you no longer need.
Why: Moving a number normally closes that line, but other lines, add-ons or services on the old account can keep billing.
Check it worked: The old carrier confirms nothing is left active, or lists only what you chose to keep.
Remove the old authenticator from each accountAuthenticator apphigh
Do this: In each account's security settings, remove the old authenticator or device where it's still listed, keeping the new app and your backup codes.
Why: Accounts that list both authenticators still accept codes from the old app.
Check it worked: Each account's security page lists only the new app, plus any security keys or backup methods you chose.
Remove the old phone from your accounts' device lists Do once for 2 changesAuthenticator appNew phonemoderate
Do this: Remove the old phone from account device lists and any sign-in approval registrations, so it can't approve sign-ins or receive codes.
For the other change: Check the device lists in your Apple Account or Google Account, password manager, bank and messaging apps, and remove the old phone wherever it still appears.
Why: Old devices and sessions can keep access after a change.
Check it worked: Check each account's device list shows only devices you have.
Delete the accounts from the old app lastAuthenticator appmoderate
Do this: Only after every account has been tested with the new app, delete the entries from the old app, then the app itself.
Why: Deleting codes is the one step you can't undo.
Check it worked: Your list shows every account moved and tested before the old app is deleted.
Authy: remove old devices and consider deleting the accountAuthenticator appmoderate
Do this: Once every account works with the new app and the old authenticator has been removed from each one, remove old devices from Authy and consider deleting your Authy account so its backups no longer exist.
Why: Cloud backups and synced copies of the old app still hold your secrets.
Check it worked: The old app's settings show no active backup, and no backups remain in its cloud account.
Reset the old phone before selling or recycling itAuthenticator appmoderate
Do this: Once nothing depends on it, sign out of your accounts, remove it from your Apple or Google account's device list, then erase it completely.
Why: The old phone can still hold codes, backups and signed-in accounts.
Check it worked: The phone starts at its setup screen and no longer appears in your account's device list.
Turn off Activation Lock or Factory Reset ProtectionNew phonehigh
Do this: Sign out of your Apple Account on an iPhone, or remove your Google account (and any Samsung account) from an Android phone, before you erase it.
Why: An iPhone stays locked to your Apple Account through Find My, and an Android phone is protected by the Google account on it. The lock can survive a reset.
Check it worked: After erasing, the phone starts at the welcome screen without asking for your account.
Erase the old phoneNew phonehigh
Do this: Use the phone's own erase or factory reset option once everything has moved and Activation Lock or Factory Reset Protection is off. Erase the eSIM when asked, and take out any physical SIM or memory card.
Why: Phones hold messages, photos, saved passwords and signed-in sessions. A full erase is the only reliable way to remove them.
Check it worked: The phone restarts to the welcome screen, with no SIM card inside.
Later3
Check the old carrier's final billMobile carrierlow
Do this: Watch for the final bill, check it against what you were told, and pay or dispute it. Keep it with your records.
Why: A final bill can include partial-month charges, a remaining phone balance or fees.
Check it worked: The final bill is settled and the old account shows a zero balance.
Catch accounts you rarely sign in toAuthenticator appmoderate
Do this: Check your list again in a few months. If an account asks for a code from the old app, use its backup codes and re-enrol it.
Why: Tax, domain, insurance and old shopping accounts tend to surface months later.
Check it worked: Nothing has asked for an old-app code in the months since.
Trade in, sell or recycle the old phoneNew phonelow
Do this: Check the program's requirements, remove the case and SIM, and keep the confirmation until the credit or payment arrives.
Why: Trade-in values usually depend on the phone's condition, and most programs require it to be erased and removed from your account first.
Check it worked: The trade-in credit or sale payment has arrived.